April Club Release Bordeaux

As with many things in our life, music, food, wine, coffee, clothing brands, etc, that which you first explore ends up becoming the measuring stick that all other experiences are measured against. As with most of the English-speaking world, for wine, Bordeaux is where I first sharpened my wine experience. One of the most over-digested, reimagined, debated, overvalued quickly when success strikes, yet also a gold mine of undervalued, undiscovered treasures. The region has an estimated 7,000 producers spread across 400 square miles. It is defined by two rivers, the Dordogne and Garonne, which merge into a wide estuary called the Gironde, which then empties into the Atlantic at the westernmost edge of the growing region.   

There are pages I could write about the soil delineations, altitude variations, wind, and weather patterns. For now, let's leave those variables to the winemakers. My internal analogy for the climatic and soil influences on wine is a limited color palette available to 7000 artists, all trying to create art that sets them apart from their neighbors. You can imagine how granular terroir expression can become with these limitations.   

Choosing a Bordeaux to purchase is also a study in resisting marketing manipulation. It is easy to follow what the fancy talking heads say and buy accordingly. Still, the unfortunate truth is that scores are more subjective and marketing-focused than a consumer would be happy with if they could look behind the curtain. As with most experiences, setting and expectation often influence a consumer’s perceived value more than raw sensory experience. So here is my pitch to you:  

This month’s wine club selection is really good. You can look up scores or read fancy descriptions online; they all have a pretty strong online presence. Alternatively, let’s prepare these wines for proper enjoyment and give an honest evaluation. Love it or hate it, opinions are what matter. We all have different frameworks for taste; some were raised on soda, some on Malt-O-Meal. We often are unaware of the measuring sticks we are bringing to the sensory tasting experience. I’ll list these wines, give a brief description, and follow up with how to prepare them. Since these wines are made for cellaring, to drink them young, we need to give them some oxygen and let them open up. What this allows is for some of the complex, long-chain tannins and molecules that we do not have sensory receptors for to break down with oxygen into simpler molecules that we can perceive.   

Lions de Suduiraut, Bordeaux Blanc Sec, 2024  

If you have not had the chance to explore the white wines coming out of Bordeaux, let this be a wonderful primer. Blending the contrasting profiles of Semillon, melon, and beeswax with Sauvignon Blanc, citrus, and grass provides a surprisingly complex, fuller-than-expected body. Although these do have aging potential when winemakers are intentional with their production, they can be enjoyed fresh, straight out of the bottle, with a chill. I chose this bottle for its typicality of the style. Still, I also thought the balance of herbal and floral aromatics with the racy, complex acidity was notable, in contrast to the generous mouthfeel if you are looking for an ideal pairing, Lamb Gyro. Set out open 1.5 before service. 

Chateau Tour Chaigneau, Lalande-de-Pomerol, 2022  

Bordeaux is stylistically split between the left bank and the right bank, denoting on which side of the Gironde the grapes are grown. Let us set this as your typical example of what a right-bank Bordeaux is: it is located 800 meters from the famous and overpriced Petrus. The blend clocks in at 92% Merlot, grown on the famous clay and limestone with iron dross soil, allowing Merlot to deepen the depth (clay) and mineral complexity (iron).  The rest of the blend is there to provide some definition and structure for the Merlot to fill in: 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Pressac. Look up a romesco sauce to top some tender pork medallions for some matching magic.  Set out to open 20-24 hrs before service. 

Chateau Haut de la Becade, Pauillac, 2022  

Now to the left bank, home of Cabernet Sauvignon. Terroir is all about location, and this chateau is between some of the best-known vineyards in the world, to the north, Lynch Bages, Mouton Rothschild, d’Armailhac, and Pontet Canet, turning south, Pichon Baron, Pichon Lalande de Comtesse, and Latour. Cassis and rocks dominate the experience—70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc. Expect a monumental structure, framed by stone-driven tannins and deeply concentrated dark fruits. As a pairing contrast to the fruit and to highlight the tannins, I feel a generous application of Mediterranean herbs to some juicy red meat, or, better yet, to a flourless chocolate torte. Best served with 1-1.5 hours of opening time prior to service.